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Nov 19 2013

easy boot shapers

Posted by hayley
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Between Arizona and California, I have not lived in real winter for over 11 years. We would visit the cold and snow occasionally, but my definition of “winter shoes” has been a cute pair of ballet flats. It only took a couple days of sloshing through Virginia rain and cooler temps to realize I needed to invest in some legitimate winter footwear, STAT!

My boot collection is growing, but my closet began to suffer from a bad case of limp-boot-osis.
I found boot shapers online for (gasp!) $20-$40 a pair. Um, no.

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Enter the Dollar Store pool noodle! I know it’s out of season, but ask a store manager… mine had a bunch in their back stock room. First, do battle to ensure their worthiness.

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Then stick a noodle inside the boot and slice slightly above the cuff with a serrated kitchen bread knife. Cuts like buttah! Two noodles was enough for 3 pairs of boots.

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You can stop right there if you want because it’s totally functional. But functional ≠ cute. So, I picked up a few pairs of dollar store men’s knitted socks also.

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Turn the sock inside out. Sew a line across the heel to make a nice straight tube shape.

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Cut off the heel.

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Turn the sock right-side-out and pull tight over pre-cut noodle. Position and mark the center top with a pin.

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I sewed 1″ x 7″ straps from scrap fabric, then used my snap pliers to attach plastic snaps to both the sock and the straps. But you could just as easily use velcro, buttons, or hand-stitch them together.

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Place the noodle back inside and sew the end shut. Trim excess.

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Cute, right?

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Know what the best part is?
Even with the sock/strap enhancement, each set only costs $1.60 and took about 20 min to make.

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Much better!

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Tags: boot shaper tutorial, boot stays, boots, boots stay up, closet organization, diy boot keepers, shoe care
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Nov 18 2013

say what ?

Posted by hayley
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Songbird frequently calls my vernacular into question.

“Why did you say that?” “What does that mean?”

When certain catchphrases or silly slang words have always been part of your language, inquiring kids make you wonder about their origins. I thought it might be fun to occasionally research and share the history of our unusual phrases…

Let’s blow this pop (popsicle) stand!

popsicles

Meaning: to exit or remove oneself from a less than exciting location or environment.

Origin: Old west outlaws used the phrase “blow this town” – meaning to blow the bank safe and quickly leave the town.

Even though frozen juice bars had been around since the 1800s, the Popsicle™ wasn’t officially invented until 1905 by a man named Frank Epperson, who later patented it in 1923. Around the same time, patents were issued for portable vending carts.

But why blow the popsicle stand?

Well, in 1876, Carl von Linden patented the process to liquefy gas – refrigeration technology. The toxic gases of ammonia, methyl chloride, and sulfur dioxide were used as refrigerants. Prior to the invention of Freon in 1929, there had been several fatal accidents due to methyl chloride leaking out of refrigerators.

Therefore, it could be concluded that any vendor cart selling cold products like Popsicles™ could have a refrigerator leaking toxic gas. Not wanting to stay around a potentially hazardous refrigerator, one might say, “Let’s get a popsicle and get out of here.” or “Let’s blow this pop stand.”

 

source: http://www.answerbag.com/q_view/38632

Tags: phrase origins, say what
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Nov 15 2013

paint it proper : how to paint a tall stairwell

Posted by hayley
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The painting continues! When Handsome and I got to the stairwells, we were a little perplexed. Even with his 6’3″ height and an extension pole, how on earth do you cut in and finish spaces like this massively tall stairwell? Hire a painter at $30/hour? Rent scaffolding at $50/day?

After a quick YouTube search, a trip to Home Depot for a 2×6, and a neighbor’s borrowed extension ladder we were in business.

Step 1. Take photo of “before”. Laugh as 5-yr-old perfects her photo-bombing skills. Then firmly warn her not to mess with steps 2-6. (this step optional)

Step 2. Secure extension ladder feet against the stairs. If pushed tight against the back of the step it will not slip.

Step 3. Lean ladder against far wall and double check all ladder safety devices are set.

Step 4. Use a second step ladder on the top landing, keeping its feet a few inches back from the step edge!

Step 5. Lay one end of 2×6 lumber through the extension ladder. Double clamp the other end to the step ladder. We needed a 10ft board, but be sure to measure your distance to determine how long yours should be.

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Step 6. CAREFULLY climb the extension ladder and walk the plank to finish the job. The contractor guy on YouTube said this was safe so that’s gotta be true, right?!

Our front zig-zag stairwell landings were too narrow to fully open the step ladder, but leaning it against the wall worked just as well.

This technique is NOT for the faint of heart or clumsy. I tried to research just how much weight a 2×6 can handle before it snaps, but had little success coming up with a concrete number. My girlish figure of 140lbs slightly bowed the beam and it did spring a little when I walked, but was no where near breaking and never felt unsafe. (Did I just tattle my weight for the world to know?! In the interest of safety… yes, yes I did.) Best to do a trial run very low to the ground before attempting this up high.

$7 for lumber and some sweat equity – that’s what I’m talkin’ about!

Now go forth and conquer those impossible spaces, my friends.
And if you missed any of the previous proper painting posts, you can find them all HERE.

Disclaimer: Please use extreme caution and common sense. I claim no responsibility for botched or mishandled plank walking!

Tags: diy scaffolding, homemade scaffolding, paint it proper, paint techniques, painting pro tips, painting secrets, painting tall stairwells
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Nov 13 2013

paint it proper : no pain all gain

Posted by hayley
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Now that you’ve mastered painting perfect tapelines, it’s time to finish up. Painting a huge space can be a physically demanding task: squatting to roller the bottom, climbing ladders to roll the top. Here’s a few tips to minimize the pain of painting.

SUPPLIES

  • Paint roller and covers – ladies, unless Paul Bunyan has offered to paint for you, do yourself a favor and bypass those humungous rollers. Not only are they heavy when loaded with paint, but the splatter they throw off is enough to make you look like a human Jackson Pollack. Grab what they call 6.5″ mini-rollers instead. These smaller frames and roller covers hold almost as much paint and they won’t have your arms screaming “uncle” after one wall. Choose the correct roller “nap” for the texture of your wall – more texture needs thicker nap.
  • Roller handle extender – Mr Longarm‘s button release makes for super quick length adjustments.
  • Paint tray – liners always wiggle in those fancy metal trays. These sturdy plastic trays hold up just great, fit your roller perfectly and can be tossed when you’re done.

• Ladder – preferably one with wide steps and a nice shelf. My lightweight 4′ Cosco has been my trusty assistant for a decade. I’m 5’6″ and can easily reach a 8′ ceiling from the top step.

  • Dropcloth – doesn’t have to be fancy… some old towels can work fine, unless you’re really clumsy.
  • Screwdriver – for your switch/outlet plates.
  • Rags

AND if you’re military, don’t forget to ask Home Depot and Lowe’s for their 10% discount (they will even honor it for online purchases – just “live chat” with one of their specialists)!

 

Make sure all your “cutting in” is done with a brush before you start rolling (wall edges and inside corners). Click HERE if you missed the post on perfect tape lines.

Step 1. Remove all light switch and outlet covers. Please don’t just tape and paint around them – not only is it lazy, but it will cement that cover to the wall in a very unsightly manner.

Step 2. Fill the tray well with your color-du-jour. I like to steady my tray edge against the baseboard, too. I’m going rogue here and not using a dropcloth, but you may want to. Attach your roller to the handle extender. Evenly saturate the cover and roll off extra on the bumpy part of the tray.

Step 3. Working in 2ft columns, start at the bottom and paint your way to the top. Run the roller in an X-ing motion – opposing diagonal strokes – for the best coverage. Using the handle extension allows you the ability to paint the entire wall standing in one comfortable position. Since you already painted 2″ in from all the edges when you taped, you don’t have to worry about getting super close to the ceiling or baseboards.

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Step 4. Continue making columns up, then down, until the whole wall is covered. I have never met a paint that didn’t need two coats (at least). Paint the first coat around the entire room and typically it will be dry enough to keep going with a second coat by the time you get back to your starting point. Enlisting a helper makes it twice as fast and fun.

paint directions

Step 5. Wait about 8 hours before replacing the switch covers – you don’t want them to adhere to tacky paint. It’s not worth rinsing out roller covers and trays either… just toss ’em.

You’re done! Did anyone notice we didn’t use the ladder?! Hooray! Well, it is my favorite ladder and I forgot to mention it for taping (where you do need it), so I threw it in here. The quickest way to change the mood of a space is with a new wall color and now you know how to do it right.

Stay tuned for death defying acts of awesomeness in my painting impossible stairwells post…

Tags: how to paint, paint it proper, paint techniques, painting pro tips, painting secrets, wall painting
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I'm Hayley. Wife and mother by day, DIY enthusiast by night. Fueled by sweet tea and jelly beans, I own power tools and know how to use them. Consider yourself warned.

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