paint it proper | Grey House Harbor

Nov 22 2013

portable personal paint deck

Posted by hayley

Picture this: You’re standing in a store aisle, one kid tugging at your shirt complaining she’s starving, the other kid’s fiercely fighting the shopping cart buckle – screaming because you won’t hand over your iphone for him to play games. You just found a smokin’ deal on that thing you’ve been hunting for… but is it the right color?!

Do you know that color memory is actually one of the least reliable recalls we have?

Tired of buying home accessories only to end up returning them because they were slightly the wrong hue, I decided to put together a portable paint deck of all the colors I’ve used in our home. You can, too!

Buy large craft sticks – these can be found at Walmart, Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc.

Using sturdy kitchen scissors, cut the sticks about 3.5″ long.

To ensure they are all the same length, use your first stick as a template to mark the rest.

Drill a hole 3/4″ down from the cut side. Even though mine are already painted, I’d recommend not painting them before drilling. That way, if one cracks, you haven’t wasted your time.

Again, use the first hole as a template to drill through the others. Drill holes in more sticks than you need. That way you can have “blanks” to easily paint new swatches as you continue adding color to rooms.

Gather your house colors and paint the stick ends on just one side. Do 2 coats for adequate coverage. Let dry.

Purchase metal binder rings. (found mine at Target)

Loop your painted sticks on and label the back sides for reference.

Smaller, regular-sized Popsicle sticks could work also. However, I found it more difficult to hand-write info on them.

You don’t have to be flustered by demanding kids to benefit from a personal portable paint deck! This baby stays tucked in my purse and has already saved me from a handful of wayward purchases.

Tags: paint it proper, painting pro tips, painting secrets, portable paint deck, purse must haves

0 comments

Nov 15 2013

paint it proper : how to paint a tall stairwell

Posted by hayley

The painting continues! When Handsome and I got to the stairwells, we were a little perplexed. Even with his 6’3″ height and an extension pole, how on earth do you cut in and finish spaces like this massively tall stairwell? Hire a painter at $30/hour? Rent scaffolding at $50/day?

After a quick YouTube search, a trip to Home Depot for a 2×6, and a neighbor’s borrowed extension ladder we were in business.

Step 1. Take photo of “before”. Laugh as 5-yr-old perfects her photo-bombing skills. Then firmly warn her not to mess with steps 2-6. (this step optional)

Step 2. Secure extension ladder feet against the stairs. If pushed tight against the back of the step it will not slip.

Step 3. Lean ladder against far wall and double check all ladder safety devices are set.

Step 4. Use a second step ladder on the top landing, keeping its feet a few inches back from the step edge!

Step 5. Lay one end of 2×6 lumber through the extension ladder. Double clamp the other end to the step ladder. We needed a 10ft board, but be sure to measure your distance to determine how long yours should be.

Step 6. CAREFULLY climb the extension ladder and walk the plank to finish the job. The contractor guy on YouTube said this was safe so that’s gotta be true, right?!

Our front zig-zag stairwell landings were too narrow to fully open the step ladder, but leaning it against the wall worked just as well.

This technique is NOT for the faint of heart or clumsy. I tried to research just how much weight a 2×6 can handle before it snaps, but had little success coming up with a concrete number. My girlish figure of 140lbs slightly bowed the beam and it did spring a little when I walked, but was no where near breaking and never felt unsafe. (Did I just tattle my weight for the world to know?! In the interest of safety… yes, yes I did.) Best to do a trial run very low to the ground before attempting this up high.

$7 for lumber and some sweat equity – that’s what I’m talkin’ about!

Now go forth and conquer those impossible spaces, my friends.
And if you missed any of the previous proper painting posts, you can find them all HERE.

Disclaimer: Please use extreme caution and common sense. I claim no responsibility for botched or mishandled plank walking!

Tags: diy scaffolding, homemade scaffolding, paint it proper, paint techniques, painting pro tips, painting secrets, painting tall stairwells

13 comments

Nov 13 2013

paint it proper : no pain all gain

Posted by hayley

Now that you’ve mastered painting perfect tapelines, it’s time to finish up. Painting a huge space can be a physically demanding task: squatting to roller the bottom, climbing ladders to roll the top. Here’s a few tips to minimize the pain of painting.

SUPPLIES

Paint roller and covers – ladies, unless Paul Bunyan has offered to paint for you, do yourself a favor and bypass those humungous rollers. Not only are they heavy when loaded with paint, but the splatter they throw off is enough to make you look like a human Jackson Pollack. Grab what they call 6.5″ mini-rollers instead. These smaller frames and roller covers hold almost as much paint and they won’t have your arms screaming “uncle” after one wall. Choose the correct roller “nap” for the texture of your wall – more texture needs thicker nap.
Roller handle extender – Mr Longarm‘s button release makes for super quick length adjustments.
Paint tray – liners always wiggle in those fancy metal trays. These sturdy plastic trays hold up just great, fit your roller perfectly and can be tossed when you’re done.

• Ladder – preferably one with wide steps and a nice shelf. My lightweight 4′ Cosco has been my trusty assistant for a decade. I’m 5’6″ and can easily reach a 8′ ceiling from the top step.

Dropcloth – doesn’t have to be fancy… some old towels can work fine, unless you’re really clumsy.
Screwdriver – for your switch/outlet plates.
Rags

AND if you’re military, don’t forget to ask Home Depot and Lowe’s for their 10% discount (they will even honor it for online purchases – just “live chat” with one of their specialists)!

Make sure all your “cutting in” is done with a brush before you start rolling (wall edges and inside corners). Click HERE if you missed the post on perfect tape lines.

Step 1. Remove all light switch and outlet covers. Please don’t just tape and paint around them – not only is it lazy, but it will cement that cover to the wall in a very unsightly manner.

Step 2. Fill the tray well with your color-du-jour. I like to steady my tray edge against the baseboard, too. I’m going rogue here and not using a dropcloth, but you may want to. Attach your roller to the handle extender. Evenly saturate the cover and roll off extra on the bumpy part of the tray.

Step 3. Working in 2ft columns, start at the bottom and paint your way to the top. Run the roller in an X-ing motion – opposing diagonal strokes – for the best coverage. Using the handle extension allows you the ability to paint the entire wall standing in one comfortable position. Since you already painted 2″ in from all the edges when you taped, you don’t have to worry about getting super close to the ceiling or baseboards.

Step 4. Continue making columns up, then down, until the whole wall is covered. I have never met a paint that didn’t need two coats (at least). Paint the first coat around the entire room and typically it will be dry enough to keep going with a second coat by the time you get back to your starting point. Enlisting a helper makes it twice as fast and fun.

Step 5. Wait about 8 hours before replacing the switch covers – you don’t want them to adhere to tacky paint. It’s not worth rinsing out roller covers and trays either… just toss ’em.

You’re done! Did anyone notice we didn’t use the ladder?! Hooray! Well, it is my favorite ladder and I forgot to mention it for taping (where you do need it), so I threw it in here. The quickest way to change the mood of a space is with a new wall color and now you know how to do it right.

Stay tuned for death defying acts of awesomeness in my painting impossible stairwells post…

Tags: how to paint, paint it proper, paint techniques, painting pro tips, painting secrets, wall painting

5 comments

Nov 11 2013

paint it proper : perfect tape lines

Posted by hayley

There are things I am willing to pay good money for (nice furniture, quality electronics, an awesome vacation) and there are things I’m not. Mostly the latter fall into the thought category of “If can do that myself, why on earth would I pay someone to do it for me?”

Painting is in category #2.

When we bought this house the builder wanted to charge us $300/room to paint the interior. Ha! No way, José. So we have tolerated the flat white walls for the last 6 months. But anyone who knows paint, knows you so much as glance at flat white and it’s dirty… heaven forbid little kid fingers actually touch it.

I have painted 3 complete home interiors and helped numerous friends paint theirs. I’m always shocked by how much people don’t know about proper painting technique. What’s the big deal? Don’t you just tape it off and slap some paint up there? Well, yes and no. Allow me to divulge some HUGE industry secrets that will save you time, money, and the occasional string of curse words.

SUPPLIES

• Paint – duh. Is there really a difference between the big box stores and the specialty paint stores? Honestly I think the color selections at Home Depot and Lowes are kinda crummy. I do prefer the hues at Sherwin Williams, Dunn Edwards, etc, but their prices are steep. Solution? Since HD is affordable and convenient for me, I always have them color match my swatches and they turn out great. Read this good synopsis if you are confused about which finish to use where. Choosing colors is a whole other bag of cats… simple answer – be sure to consider your options in the same room you’ll be painting. Color is relative to things around it and will look different than it did under the store’s florescent lighting.

2″ Scotch blue painter’s tape – just the original kind. Do not waste $ on fancy stuff that claims to seal the edges better because frankly it doesn’t work on textured walls.
2″ angled brush – Shortcut by Wooster is my fave. The shortie handle is very comfy.
Small art brush – for touching up any small goopies.
Clear paintable caulk – please do yourself a favor on this one and buy the small hand-squeeze tube. You do not want to be up on a ladder trying to man-handle some crazy caulk gun. And yes, it MUST be CLEAR.
Paint cup – the HANDy Paint Pal is my choice because of the big handle, magnetic brush holder, and disposable quick change liners; if you prefer a red SOLO cup, then rock on with your bad self.

Ever had all your diligent taping rewarded with nothing but edge blowout? (equally as frustrating as diaper blowout, trust me)

Here’s the pro tip that pricey tape hawkers don’t want you to know: CAULK!

PAINT A PERFECT LINE, EVERY TIME

* tape doesn’t stick well to dusty baseboards… pre-wipe them with a swiffer or dryer sheet.

Step 1. Tear your tape stripes longish: 18-24″ is ideal.

Step 2. Throw the tape roll over your non-dominant hand and carefully tape off your edge. Remember that the tape line you see will be your final painted line as well, so take your time to do it right.

Firmly smooth the tape edge and be sure to overlap each new piece about 2″ over the previous one. This will be helpful later.

Step 3. DO NOT push the tape down onto baseboards or mouldings. That poor little tape edge is clinging desperately to the tiny ledge as it is. Leaving the tape up not only gives the edge strength, but also seconds as a great drip catcher.

Step 4. After you’ve taped your space it’s time to unleash your secret weapon: CAULK! You’re best off with the small hand tube and it MUST be CLEAR.

Squeeze a small dab onto your finger. (yes, it looks white… but will dry clear)

Starting in the corner, spread it very thinly along the tape line on the side you intend to paint. This seals the edge. Cover the entire edge this way, careful to leave no gaps. Only caulk as much of the tape line as you can paint in 30 minutes.

If the caulk goops on the wall, be sure and smooth it. If it goops on the tape side, no biggie.

Step 5. Important: While the caulk is still WET (or at least not totally cured) paint over it. Also paint up about 2″ from the edge. Most light to medium hues will only need one coat. If you have a dark color that requires 2 coats, then wait the minimum time and recoat. You do not want to leave the caulk on for more than an hour or so, otherwise you run the risk of it pulling up your painted edge when you pull the tape.

Step 6. While the paint is still WET, pull your tape at a 45° angle. Start from the same corner where you started taping and your 2″ overlaps will make it easy to pull the whole section as one long piece. This can get a little messy on your hands, so keep a rag nearby.

Ceilings are a cinch this way!

Step 7. Get your happy dance ready, ’cause those are some seriously awesome paint lines!

One more thing… since painting and pulling the tape before the caulk cures is crucial to your success, it’s easiest with 2 people. One tapes while the other follows with caulk, then the taper laps back to paint and the other pulls the tape up right behind them.

This technique also works fabulous for painting stripes on walls or other designer taping. Just be sure to caulk the correct edge!

Give it a whirl and share it with a friend. It’s one secret not meant to be kept. Then come back to learn how to paint without pain and how to paint impossible stairwells.