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Apr 16 2014

ombre scallop wall { a tutorial }

Posted by hayley
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ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Inspired by the scales of a mermaid tail, I intended this to be an overlapping scallop design. However, if you look at it in the reverse it’s wave shapes also. Hey – two tutorials in one!

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Start by drawing a large half-circle onto a piece of poster board. I traced a large serving tray to get the curve perfect.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Cut the semi-circle out and fold in half to make a crease. Use a pencil to mark the center of the crease at the top and the bottom.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Next, measure your wall and mark the center at the ceiling. Mine is 169 in wide, so the middle is 84.5 in.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

You will be drawing on the wall a lot, so go light with the pencil.

Line up the center of the top of the stencil with the middle of your wall.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Make sure the top of your stencil is flush with the ceiling and lightly trace the curve.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Before you move the stencil, also mark a line where the bottom of your curve falls.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Move your stencil to the right. Align the stencil next to the scallop you just drew, flush with the ceiling, and repeat. Don’t forget to mark the bottom each time. (I drew very lightly so I’ve digitally enhanced my pencil lines for you)

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

When you get to the end of the wall, align the stencil like before and gently bend it into the corner. Trace the curve, stopping at the corner.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

It helps to also mark the stencil where you bend it into a corner, so that you can align it consistently each time.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Go back to the middle of your wall, and trace the stencil the same way all the way to the left until you have one complete row of scallops across your ceiling.

Here’s where those bottom markings are crucial! To draw your next row, align the top corners of your stencil with the bottoms of your top row. Trace (and mark the bottoms!)

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Continue this way until you have as many rows as desired… or the whole wall!

The easiest way to pick ombre colors is to grab a paint swatch from the store and order one from each block. Remember that a little paint goes a long way and a tester size (8oz) of each color should be more than enough. My ombre is a little different from a straight paint swatch because I incorporated both blue and aqua hues.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

When you’re ready to start painting, begin with the lightest color. Take a tiny pointed brush and paint in the “points” first.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Then, use a larger 2″ brush to fill in the rest. I had to do 2 coats for each color.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Continue with the next darker shade, working your way up.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Funny thing about colors… even artists make mistakes sometimes. In an effort to not be too bold, I chose what I thought were muted versions of the colors I wanted. When I had painted this much of the wall, I realized these colors were way too muddy and bland for a happy 5-year-olds room.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

My mistake was pretty obvious once I chose more cheerful, vibrant versions. What was I thinking?!

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

I went back and re-painted every.
single.
scallop.

Two coats.

« UGH »

While you’re painting, leave some space at the corner. Before adding the topmost color, tape off the ceiling and side walls. Use the caulk trick to get perfect tape lines.

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Repainting almost the whole thing was a huge bummer, but I am SO glad I did. The end result is flawless. One big step closer to getting this room done!

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

ombre scallop wall tutorial  |  greyhouseharbor.com

 *** Paint colors are Sherwin Williams matched at Home Depot into tester sizes.
From top: Naval (SW 6510), Freshwater (SW 6774), Belize (SW 6945), Blue Bauble (SW 6948), Bouyant Blue (SW 6483)

Tags: diy, how to paint, paint techniques, songbirds room, tutorials
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14 comments
Apr 2 2014

how to paint a throw pillow

Posted by hayley
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paint a throw pillow  |  greyhouseharbor.com

While looking for decorative pillows for Songbird’s bed, I came across this adorable anchor design. But $52 for a 20″x 20″ pillow?! I didn’t like it that much.

Naturally I decided to make it myself. I already had an unused throw pillow insert and white fabric left over from another project. Since I was sewing my own pillow, I cut two squares of fabric to size first. However, this technique can still work if you’re starting with a pre-sewn pillow cover.

To make the stripes, I used plain ‘ole painters tape. Since the tape was already 2″ thick, I just used a small piece of it as a spacer to mark off equidistant stripes.

paint a throw pillow  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Did you know you can paint fabric with latex house paint? True story. When dry, the paint is flexible and feels smooth. Since I wanted the colors to match what I had already used in Songbird’s room, I got out the sample-sized tester jars that I used for her ombre scalloped wall.

paint a throw pillow  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Apply 2-3 coats with a small brush.

paint a throw pillow  |  greyhouseharbor.com

The fabric may bubble a little, but you can run an iron on low over the back side of the painted areas to flatten them once the paint is entirely dry. (Never place a hot iron directly onto latex paint!)

paint a throw pillow  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Once the stripes were dry, I cut the anchor shape out of freezer paper (tutorial here). To make sure the stencil was properly positioned when the pillow was full, I sewed the pillow on 3 sides and slid in the insert. Then I pinned it in place. To protect my iron from the stripe paint, I placed a piece of parchment paper on top of the stencil when I ironed it on.

paint a throw pillow  |  greyhouseharbor.com

The stencil didn’t adhere very well my textured fabric, so I used a detail brush to clean up those edges.

paint a throw pillow  |  greyhouseharbor.com

paint a throw pillow  |  greyhouseharbor.com

And because I am terrible at blind stitching by hand, I bought a zipper and finished the pillow that way.

paint a throw pillow  |  greyhouseharbor.com

Ultimately, the zipper was my only cost for this awesome accent pillow – $3! Got exactly what I wanted for a price I can live with.

paint a throw pillow  |  greyhouseharbor.com

paint a throw pillow  |  greyhouseharbor.com

*** Please keep in mind that latex house paint is NOT machine washable. Since this is a decorative pillow I figured that wasn’t a big deal; I can spot wash it if needed. I recommend using fabric paint if you desire washability.

Tags: diy, diy home improvement, paint techniques, painting, songbirds room
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6 comments
Nov 15 2013

paint it proper : how to paint a tall stairwell

Posted by hayley
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The painting continues! When Handsome and I got to the stairwells, we were a little perplexed. Even with his 6’3″ height and an extension pole, how on earth do you cut in and finish spaces like this massively tall stairwell? Hire a painter at $30/hour? Rent scaffolding at $50/day?

After a quick YouTube search, a trip to Home Depot for a 2×6, and a neighbor’s borrowed extension ladder we were in business.

Step 1. Take photo of “before”. Laugh as 5-yr-old perfects her photo-bombing skills. Then firmly warn her not to mess with steps 2-6. (this step optional)

Step 2. Secure extension ladder feet against the stairs. If pushed tight against the back of the step it will not slip.

Step 3. Lean ladder against far wall and double check all ladder safety devices are set.

Step 4. Use a second step ladder on the top landing, keeping its feet a few inches back from the step edge!

Step 5. Lay one end of 2×6 lumber through the extension ladder. Double clamp the other end to the step ladder. We needed a 10ft board, but be sure to measure your distance to determine how long yours should be.

wpid963-wpid-painted-stairwell-6.jpg

Step 6. CAREFULLY climb the extension ladder and walk the plank to finish the job. The contractor guy on YouTube said this was safe so that’s gotta be true, right?!

Our front zig-zag stairwell landings were too narrow to fully open the step ladder, but leaning it against the wall worked just as well.

This technique is NOT for the faint of heart or clumsy. I tried to research just how much weight a 2×6 can handle before it snaps, but had little success coming up with a concrete number. My girlish figure of 140lbs slightly bowed the beam and it did spring a little when I walked, but was no where near breaking and never felt unsafe. (Did I just tattle my weight for the world to know?! In the interest of safety… yes, yes I did.) Best to do a trial run very low to the ground before attempting this up high.

$7 for lumber and some sweat equity – that’s what I’m talkin’ about!

Now go forth and conquer those impossible spaces, my friends.
And if you missed any of the previous proper painting posts, you can find them all HERE.

Disclaimer: Please use extreme caution and common sense. I claim no responsibility for botched or mishandled plank walking!

Tags: diy scaffolding, homemade scaffolding, paint it proper, paint techniques, painting pro tips, painting secrets, painting tall stairwells
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13 comments
Nov 13 2013

paint it proper : no pain all gain

Posted by hayley
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Now that you’ve mastered painting perfect tapelines, it’s time to finish up. Painting a huge space can be a physically demanding task: squatting to roller the bottom, climbing ladders to roll the top. Here’s a few tips to minimize the pain of painting.

SUPPLIES

  • Paint roller and covers – ladies, unless Paul Bunyan has offered to paint for you, do yourself a favor and bypass those humungous rollers. Not only are they heavy when loaded with paint, but the splatter they throw off is enough to make you look like a human Jackson Pollack. Grab what they call 6.5″ mini-rollers instead. These smaller frames and roller covers hold almost as much paint and they won’t have your arms screaming “uncle” after one wall. Choose the correct roller “nap” for the texture of your wall – more texture needs thicker nap.
  • Roller handle extender – Mr Longarm‘s button release makes for super quick length adjustments.
  • Paint tray – liners always wiggle in those fancy metal trays. These sturdy plastic trays hold up just great, fit your roller perfectly and can be tossed when you’re done.

• Ladder – preferably one with wide steps and a nice shelf. My lightweight 4′ Cosco has been my trusty assistant for a decade. I’m 5’6″ and can easily reach a 8′ ceiling from the top step.

  • Dropcloth – doesn’t have to be fancy… some old towels can work fine, unless you’re really clumsy.
  • Screwdriver – for your switch/outlet plates.
  • Rags

AND if you’re military, don’t forget to ask Home Depot and Lowe’s for their 10% discount (they will even honor it for online purchases – just “live chat” with one of their specialists)!

 

Make sure all your “cutting in” is done with a brush before you start rolling (wall edges and inside corners). Click HERE if you missed the post on perfect tape lines.

Step 1. Remove all light switch and outlet covers. Please don’t just tape and paint around them – not only is it lazy, but it will cement that cover to the wall in a very unsightly manner.

Step 2. Fill the tray well with your color-du-jour. I like to steady my tray edge against the baseboard, too. I’m going rogue here and not using a dropcloth, but you may want to. Attach your roller to the handle extender. Evenly saturate the cover and roll off extra on the bumpy part of the tray.

Step 3. Working in 2ft columns, start at the bottom and paint your way to the top. Run the roller in an X-ing motion – opposing diagonal strokes – for the best coverage. Using the handle extension allows you the ability to paint the entire wall standing in one comfortable position. Since you already painted 2″ in from all the edges when you taped, you don’t have to worry about getting super close to the ceiling or baseboards.

wpid661-paint-progression.jpg

Step 4. Continue making columns up, then down, until the whole wall is covered. I have never met a paint that didn’t need two coats (at least). Paint the first coat around the entire room and typically it will be dry enough to keep going with a second coat by the time you get back to your starting point. Enlisting a helper makes it twice as fast and fun.

paint directions

Step 5. Wait about 8 hours before replacing the switch covers – you don’t want them to adhere to tacky paint. It’s not worth rinsing out roller covers and trays either… just toss ’em.

You’re done! Did anyone notice we didn’t use the ladder?! Hooray! Well, it is my favorite ladder and I forgot to mention it for taping (where you do need it), so I threw it in here. The quickest way to change the mood of a space is with a new wall color and now you know how to do it right.

Stay tuned for death defying acts of awesomeness in my painting impossible stairwells post…

Tags: how to paint, paint it proper, paint techniques, painting pro tips, painting secrets, wall painting
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5 comments


I'm Hayley. Wife and mother by day, DIY enthusiast by night. Fueled by sweet tea and jelly beans, I own power tools and know how to use them. Consider yourself warned.

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